L’Authentique, for instance, the estate’s flagship cuvée, is a heady stroll through old vines, knockin’ on heaven’s door. On the way you might bump into Bruno, the older brother, walking the rows and blowing in the wind. He always lets nature decide, being a force of nature himself. Discreet, but not silent, he can talk about the care vines need, and about organic-viticulture principles, which are full of common sense. “L’Authentique” could also be Vincent, the younger Delubac, and head winemaker. According to him, the family’s history is a stream of anecdotes, coursing through the conversation.